Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Tomato Tips: Things to think about before you buy and plant


Its that time of year and people are rushing out to buy tomatoes.  However, I encourage you to stop and think about what you and your tomatoes need to have a happy, healthy growing season.  This is one time when it doesn't pay to be impatient. 

Tomatoes are a warm weather crop and don't flourish until day time temperatures are well into the 60s and night time temperatures are above 50 F.  If you set your plants out the beginning of April, they will not grow vigorously until the soil and air temperatures warm up towards the end of the month.  Meanwhile, tomatoes are very sensitive to frost.  The last frost date in our area tends to occur around April 15 to 20 although it can occasionally happen as late as the first week in May.  If you buy tomatoes earlier, you will need to protect them from cold nights until the weather warms.  You are better off waiting until after the last frost date to buy and plant your tomato seedlings.  These plants will likely grow more quickly and vigorously than tomatoes planted in cold soils early in the season.

Varietal selection is important when choosing what tomato varieties you want to grow.  At the very least, you need to consider their growing habits (determinant versus indeterminant tomatoes) and disease resistance.

Many of us have heard the terms determinant and indeterminant but what do these terms mean?  Determinate tomatoes bear a single large harvest while indeterminate tomatoes bear fruit over a longer harvesting season. Determinate varieties are often (but not always) more compact while indeterminate varieties tend to grow longer vines and require more support.

So which type should you grow? Determinate varieties are a good choice for people who like to make sauce, can or dry tomatoes. If you use tomatoes mostly for snacking and eating fresh, indeterminate varieties will provide you with tomatoes throughout the season. If you are growing your tomatoes in a container, a determinate variety will tend to be more well-behaved and not require as much support and pruning to maintain as an indeterminate variety. When shopping, look for the abbreviation DET (determinate) or IND (indeterminate) on the label. Most cherry tomato and heirloom varieties are indeterminate.

If you choose to grow determinate tomatoes, you may want to select several different varieties to ensure early, mid and late season crops. Look at the seed package to determine the number of days from seeding until fruit set.  Choose varieties with different maturity dates if you want production throughout the season.  Remember that the seed sowing date and growing conditions will affect the actual fruiting date.

"Suckering", or removing the side shoots that develop between the main stem and a leaf, is a common practice but it is not desirable for determinant varieties because it will decrease yields. You can sucker your indeterminate varieties but it may not be necessary if you have a vigorous, well-caged plant.

Disease resistance is an important characteristic in tomatoes.  Some tomato varieties are naturally more resistant to certain diseases than others.  If you can determine which diseases are issues in your garden, you may be able to choose varieties that are less susceptible.  Two diseases of particular issue in Onslow County are Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus and Southern Bacterial Wilt. 

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) results in tomato plants that stop growing and look stunted.  The young leaves may look purplish-brown and appear to be dying.  This is a viral disease that is transmitted by tiny insects called thrips.  The thrips transfer the virus from weeds around the garden to the tomato plants.  If you have experienced TSWV in the past, look for a tomato variety that lists TSWV on the package, indicating that the variety carries some natural resistance to this disease.  Also, eliminate the weeds in and around the garden area that harbor this disease.

Southern Bacterial Blight is a common soil-borne disease in our area.  This disease results in plants wilting (despite adequate soil moisture) as the bacteria blocks up the vascular system of the plant.  Initially plants may wilt only on hot afternoons and revive by the next morning.  As the disease progresses, the entire plant will wilt permanently and die.  The bacteria that causes this disease lives in the soil and can persist for years so your best treatment is to relocate your tomatoes (in another part of the garden or another location all together).  You may also consider growing your tomatoes in containers using clean potting mix.  There are very few tomato varieties that are naturally resistant to Southern Bacterial Blight and the few that are do not have high quality fruit.

These are just two of the diseases that can affect tomatoes.   You may see other acronyms on your tomato packet including TMV (Tobacco Mosaic Virus resistance) and N (Nematode resistance). 

So please be patient.  Wait another week or two before buying your tomato plants, choose your varieties carefully, plant them when the soil and nights are warm, and give them the best possible chance to grow and thrive.          

Thursday, April 7, 2011

The Impatient Gardener


I am an impatient person.  I can’t wait for spring, warm weather and to start digging in the garden.  I check my seedbeds obsessively until I see the first little green leaves emerging.  Then I stand back and tap my toes until the plants present the first buds, flowers and, finally, fruit.  And then at the end of the season, I impatiently wait for the next growing season to start.  Now don’t get me wrong, I know the schedule and how plants work but I can’t help myself.  I want something growing, all of the time and I don’t want to have to fuss over it too much. 

I finally admitted that I am an impatient gardener several weeks ago when I found myself out in the garden carefully digging to uncover a seed potato.  I had planted the potatoes two weeks before and couldn’t stand it any longer.  I dug down “just to see what was going on”.  In reality the potatoes were only a couple days away from emerging but I couldn’t wait – I just wanted to make sure the little suckers were really doing something!

The potatoes were doing exactly what they were supposed to be doing and emerged right on schedule (yes, even the one I dug up) and I realized just how impatient I really am.  Sometimes being a little impatient is a good thing though.  It makes me look at what I am doing and ask, “Is this really necessary?” or “What can I do make this process more efficient?” 
  
In this blog, I want to focus on the things that make an impatient gardener tick: the principles and practices that give us the most bang for our gardening buck and limited time.  What do we really need to do for our garden to succeed and flourish?  What techniques let us maximize our production in a limited space?  What practices minimize the amount of busy work we need to do in the garden?  What little secrets will let us go out and pick produce out of our own gardens when everyone else is headed to the grocery store? 

I hope that you will join me in this process, even if you aren’t an impatient gardener.